The swim was glorious, our first this trip in the Ionian Sea—clear warm water with an even saltier buoyancy than at Otranto on the Adriatic side. The pizza at Bella Napoli had evolved to a slightly different style than in past years—crustier, but still memorable. The restaurant’s salame picante is far superior and more picante than that of California’s tired, industrial pepperoni. And finally, at Melissano, we were treated to a lively community gathering of local musicians and their fans: from rock, to ballads, to jazz, to our friend Carlo’s group that offered songs sung by Carlo in English and inspired by poetry from English literature, all accompanied by his group’s four guitars. There were two piazzas, a block apart, each with their own stage and their own throng of fans, families and busy children enjoying the warm summer’s late night entertainment.